3 Days of Trekking Through the Colca Canyon
Day 1: Cabanaconde – Llahuar
Starting My Trek in the Canyon de Colca
Left at 8:30 AM and arrived at Llahuar Lodge around 1 PM.
After a nice breakfast at Santiago Hotel, it was time to start walking. The first part is easy, you leave the city on a well-paved trail marked clearly as the trekking route.
After about 20 minutes, you arrive at a stunning viewpoint, the Achachihua Mirador, which offers an amazing overview of the canyon and is where we would sleep tonight. On the left below in the canyon lies Llahuar village.
If you’re lucky, you might spot condors here too! I saw one flying this morning toward Cabanaconde.
At the mirador, a kind of forest guard asks to see your ticket. It’s not obvious as there’s no kiosk or desk, but these are official rangers ensuring visitors pay to protect the canyon.
The ticket costs 70 soles, which is quite a lot. It allows access to the canyon for 3 days. You can buy one at the Mirador Cruz del Condor if you don’t have it yet.
I bought mine yesterday, but here was a problem: yesterday, today, and the next two days combined make four days, but the ticket is only valid for 3 days. I didn’t know what would happen on the last day. Let’s see.
The Beautiful Overview of the Canyon
For the next hour, the walk is pleasant. You remain above the canyon but begin a slight descent. There are multiple viewpoints, each offering a new breathtaking angle to admire the canyon.
The Big Descent
For about two hours, you trek steeply down the canyon. The path becomes narrower and more rocky. Don’t worry, just take your time.
The view remains incredible, with scenic viewpoints along the way.
The vegetation is surprising. It’s hotter than expected, even at about 3,000 meters. The landscape is dry, filled with cacti and similar plants, looking a bit like the Sierra Nevada.
It’s impressive how the path snakes down the steep valley walls. The opposite canyon side is smoother but still steep, while our side has huge rock walls with jagged edges. Yet, there’s always a safer smoother path for trekkers.
Down the Canyon
You finally reach the river at the canyon bottom. There are two bridges, take the bigger one—the older bridge I took looks like an Indiana Jones scene.
Past the bridge, the path widens for cars passing through. To reach Llahuar village, take the upper road.
Llahuar Lodge or Casa de Virgen
After about 5 hours of a calm trek, I arrived at the village, starting at 8:30 AM and arriving around 1 PM.
I crossed one more bridge and reached the front of Llahuar Lodge and Casa de Virgen. I hadn’t booked in advance, so I asked Casa de Virgen if they had space; they have a better online rating. Unfortunately, it was full, so I went to Llahuar Lodge.
It’s a nice, bigger hotel with simple rooms.
- Dorm bed: 35 soles, breakfast included
- Simple room with shared bathroom: 40 soles, breakfast included
- Private double room: 120 soles
- Dinner costs from 20 to 40 soles depending on your order.
- Big bottles of water cost 12 soles.
- They accept credit cards with a 5% fee, so you can either bring cash or pay by card, which is very convenient here.
In total, I spent about 140 soles for lunch, dinner, breakfast, 2 liters of water, a room, and access to the hot springs—all really worth it.
The rooms are scattered along the valley from the main building to the river.
By the river, there are hot springs—amazing natural pools with an incredible view. Water temperature is about 40 degrees Celsius or less.
If it gets too hot, dive into the river next to the springs, which might be 10-15 degrees. It’s a wonderful way to spend the afternoon.
Don’t forget to bring a swimsuit and towel (not provided).
