Visiting Machu Picchu is an unforgettable experience in your life. Many travelers decide to make it even more memorable by trekking through Peru's stunning mountain landscapes to reach the ancient Inca city. Various trails exist around the Cusco region to reach Aguas Calientes, the town next to Machu Picchu, or even directly to the archaeological site itself. In this article, I'll share my experience with one of the most spectacular treks: the Salkantay Trek. The Salkantay Trek offers a perfect alternative to the crowded Inca Trail, providing adventurous travelers with diverse landscapes. Five days of walking alongside mesmerizing lakes, majestic mountains, and incredible valleys to reach Aguas Calientes and then visit the mystical Inca City of Machu Picchu.
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Why the Salkantay Trek Should Be on Your Bucket List
Famous for All the Right Reasons
You've probably seen stunning photos of the Salkantay Trek on social media platforms like Instagram and Facebook. The trek has gained international recognition for its amazing landscapes and diverse ecosystems. National Geographic Adventure Travel magazine recently recognized the Salkantay Trek as one of the 25 best adventures in the world, cementing its status as a world-class trekking destination.
The Salkantay Trek offers a more authentic way to experience Machu Picchu compared to taking the train directly. Instead of simply arriving at the ancient citadel, you'll earn your visit through days of challenging hiking, making the moment you first see Machu Picchu incredibly emotional and rewarding. The trek passes through remote areas where you'll experience Peru's incredible biodiversity, from high-altitude glacial lakes to tropical cloud forests.
Many trekkers choose Salkantay specifically because it doesn't require permits like the Inca Trail, making it more accessible for spontaneous travelers. However, this popularity means you'll encounter other hiking groups along the route, especially at key landmarks like Humantay Lake.
Where the Salkantay Mountain Dominates the Landscape
The trek is located in the Cusco region of Peru, approximately 100 kilometers northeast of Cusco city. Salkantay is the name of a magnificent mountain, standing as the second-highest peak in the region at 6,271 meters above sea level (20,574 feet). This imposing mountain is part of the Vilcabamba Range, home to some of the region's most spectacular peaks.
The name “Salkantay” comes from Quechua and means “wild mountain” or “indomitable mountain”. The word combines “Sallqa” (meaning wild or untamed) with “Antay” (referring to a place that produces avalanches). The Incas considered Salkantay an “APU,” a sacred mountain that protected nearby communities and guided their lives. This deep spiritual significance continues today, with local communities performing rituals asking the mountain for protection and good harvests.
Weather Patterns and Best Time to Trek
During my trek in mid-July, we experienced crystal-clear skies for all five days! The weather was absolutely perfect for a high-altitude trek like Salkantay. However, you must understand that you'll reach extreme elevations, so even sunny days can be cold, especially at night.
The best time to trek Salkantay is during the dry season from May to October. June through August represents peak trekking season with the most reliable weather conditions, minimal rainfall, and excellent mountain visibility. However, these months also bring larger crowds and higher prices.
Fortunately, the freezing temperatures only occur during the first two days when you're at higher altitudes. After crossing the Salkantay Pass at 4,630 meters, you'll descend to lower elevations with much warmer and more comfortable temperatures.
Accommodation Options Along the Trek
The Salkantay Trek can be completed either with a tour agency (probably what 85-90% of trekkers choose) or independently with small groups of friends or couples. The route passes through a protected area that isn't a national reserve, meaning many local families live in the region and operate restaurants, campsites, and basic accommodations.
Most trekking companies provide excellent camping equipment, including dome tents, sleeping bags, and dining tents. However, budget travelers can find basic hostels and family-run accommodations in villages along the route.
Trekking with an Agency vs. Going Independent
The Salkantay Trek is becoming increasingly popular, which means infrastructure has developed to support independent trekkers. You'll find accommodations and restaurants throughout the route, though options remain limited compared to more developed trekking regions.
Many independent trekkers carry their own tents, which provides flexibility in camping locations. The main advantage of going independent is the freedom to set your own pace and schedule. However, you'll need to carry all your equipment on your back, including food, camping gear, and warm clothing.
When trekking with an agency, they provide porters who carry a duffel bag containing 5-10 kg of your personal items (clothes, toiletries, sleeping bag) from campsite to campsite. You'll still carry a daypack with essentials like sunscreen, water, camera, and snacks, but it's much lighter. This arrangement allows you to better enjoy the spectacular landscapes without being exhausted from carrying heavy loads.
Professional guides also enhance the experience significantly by sharing knowledge about Inca culture, local flora and fauna, and the historical significance of sites you'll visit. They ensure your safety at high altitudes and can assist with altitude sickness prevention and treatment.
Essential Packing List for the Salkantay Trek
With or without an agency, here are the essentials I'd recommend for your Salkantay Trek adventure:
Clothing Essentials:
- Warm and lightweight wool socks (the first days are cold, the last ones range from cool to hot)
- Multiple clothing layers including thermal base layers, fleece mid-layer, and waterproof outer shell
- Insulated down jacket for extreme cold at high altitudes
- Woolen beanie or warm hat to keep your head warm during freezing nights
- Breathable hiking shirts (3-4 quick-drying options)
- Waterproof hiking pants and shorts
- Warm sleepwear for cold mountain nights
Protection and Safety:
- High-SPF sunscreen and quality sunglasses (UV rays are intense at high altitude)
- Your camera with extra batteries (the landscapes are truly spectacular!)
- Headlamp with spare batteries for early morning starts and evening activities
Health and Comfort:
- Snacks, electrolyte supplements, and a large water bottle for refilling
- Blister bandages (you'll average 15-20 km per day!)
- Mosquito repellent spray for lower altitude sections
- Altitude sickness medication and basic first aid supplies
Optional but Useful Items:
- Trekking poles can be helpful but aren't absolutely necessary (many agencies rent them)
- Inflatable mattress (particularly useful for the third night)
- Quality sleeping bag (agencies typically provide these, but you can bring your own)
- Swimwear for the optional Cocalmayo Hot Springs visit ( if you passing by Santa Theresa – not the route I took)
Overview of My Salkantay Trek Experience
The following section provides a quick overview day-by-day account of my entire Salkantay Trek experience. I'll share the highlights, challenges, landscapes. I've summarized each day below before diving into the full details.
Day 0: Preparation and Briefing
Meeting with the TreXperience team and fellow trekkers for the next five days. The guides explained the detailed program, weather expectations, and safety protocols. They provided duffel bags for our base camp equipment while we organized our daypacks.
Day 1: Cusco to Humantay Lake and Soraypampa Base Camp
Waking up at 4:30 AM, driving several hours through beautiful Andean scenery, enjoying a hearty buffet breakfast in Mollepata, then driving to the trailhead. The day featured hiking to the stunning turquoise Humantay Lake, lunch at Soray, and an afternoon hike to our first base camp. Cold but absolutely beautiful landscapes.
- Distance : 8 km
- Ascent : 638 meters
- Descent : 360 meters
- Estimated time : 5 hours
- Highest point: Humantay Lake at 4,200m
Day 2: Conquering the Salkantay Pass
Waking up early for the most challenging day, hiking to the famous Salkantay Pass at 4,630 meters elevation. As the first group (our base camp was closest to the mountain), we enjoyed a long pause to admire the magnificent Salkantay Mountain and learn about Inca culture. The descent through changing ecosystems to Collpapampa was long but rewarding, with landscapes becoming greener and warmer.
- Distance : 19.5 km
- Ascent : 230 meters
- Descent : 1 750 meters
- Estimated time : 9 hours
- Highest point: Salkantay Pass at 4,630m
Day 3: Cloud Forest and Coffee Culture
Waking up early but later than previous days. Multiple groups start simultaneously from Collpapampa. The descent through the valley toward Lucmabamba revealed warmer temperatures and lush rainforest vegetation. We visited Winaypoco, took a van to the organic Coffee Ana Maria plantation for a traditional cooking experience, then hiked to the Llactapata Archaeological Zone with our first incredible views of Machu Picchu.
- Distance : 14.2 km
- Ascent : 750 meters
- Descent : 786 meters
- Estimated time : 6.5 hours
- Highlight: First glimpse of Machu Picchu from Llactapata
Day 4: Railway Walk to Aguas Calientes
A relaxed morning descent to Hydroelectric Station, officially entering Machu Picchu National Park. Our chef prepared a final lunch before we continued walking to Aguas Calientes following the railway tracks (challenging due to uneven rocks). PeruRail trains passed by regularly while we enjoyed bird songs, green forest vegetation, and agreeable climate. Arriving in Aguas Calientes allowed time to relax and prepare for the next day's Machu Picchu visit.
- Distance : 17 km
- Ascent : 160 meters
- Descent : 810 meters
- Estimated time : 6.5 hours
- Destination: Aguas Calientes at 2,000m elevation
Day 5: The Ultimate Goal - Machu Picchu
Waking up at 4:30 AM to catch the first buses to Machu Picchu, avoiding crowds and enjoying optimal photography conditions. Our guided tour covered Circuit 2 with spectacular landscapes and fewer people (6-7 AM arrival). After exploring the main ruins for 2-3 hours, we completed Circuit 3 to climb Huayna Picchu Mountain, providing an incredible 360-degree view with the Inca city spread below us. Returning to Aguas Calientes for lunch, collecting our bags, and taking the panoramic PeruRail train to Ollantaytambo, followed by van transport back to Cusco to conclude our incredible adventure.
- Distance : 5 km
- Ascent : 360 meters
- Descent : 360 meters
- Estimated time : 5 hours
- Ultimate highlight: Sunrise at Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu summit views
The Salkantay Trek experience combines physical challenge with cultural immersion, taking you through Peru's most diverse and spectacular landscapes. From the sacred Salkantay Mountain to the mystical Machu Picchu, every step reveals why this trek has earned recognition as one of the world's greatest adventures. The journey tests your endurance while rewarding you with memories that will last a lifetime, making it the perfect way to earn your visit to one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.
My Experience Day by Day with TreXperience
I completed the Salkantay Trek in mid-July with TreXperience, one of Peru's most respected trekking operators. Our trek lasted five days, with the final day culminating in the magical visit to Machu Picchu. I'll share my day-by-day and even hour-by-hour experience, highlighting what exceeded expectations and what could have been improved during this adventure. This detailed account will help you understand exactly what to expect from the Salkantay Trek when booking with a premium agency like TreXperience.
The Preparation: Professional Organization from Start to Finish
Booking Process
I booked the tour several months in advance, which I highly recommend for securing better prices and ensuring availability during peak season. TreXperience sent detailed confirmation emails a week before departure, requesting final payment and providing essential packing information.
Pre-Trek Briefing
The evening before our departure, we attended a comprehensive briefing at TreXperience's Cusco office. Our guide explained the detailed five-day program, weather expectations, and daily challenges we'd face. They provided large duffel bags for our base camp clothing and equipment, while we organized our daypacks with daily essentials.
The briefing session allowed us to ask unlimited questions about gear requirements, hiking expectations, and Machu Picchu visit details. TreXperience offered equipment rental services for items we hadn't brought, including sleeping bags, inflatable mattresses, and trekking poles. Their professional organization immediately impressed me, setting high expectations for the trek ahead.
Day 1: Humantay Lake and Spectacular High-Altitude Landscapes
Early Morning Departure (3:00 AM - 8:30 AM)
The alarm rang at 3:00 AM for a 4:00 AM pickup. Our guide Adelina waited outside our accommodation, walking us to the main street where the van collected our group. We waited briefly as the vehicle picked up all 16 participants from various Cusco locations.
At 4:15 AM, we joined the convoy of multiple vans heading toward the mountains. Not every group was doing the Salkantay Trek; some headed to Aguas Calientes, Ollantaytambo, or the Inca Trail starting points. We stopped at TreXperience's main office to meet our complete team, including porters and cooking staff.
By 4:30 AM, we were driving through the dark Andean roads toward our first destination. The three-hour scenic drive to Mollepata provided stunning dawn views of the Cusco region's mountainous landscape.
Breakfast and Trail Preparation (6:30 AM - 8:50 AM)
We arrived at 6:30 AM at a local restaurant in Mollepata for a hearty buffet breakfast. The spread included scrambled eggs, pancakes, fresh fruits, coffee, tea, and traditional Andean bread. This substantial meal provided essential energy for the demanding day ahead.
At 7:10 AM, we continued by van to Soraypampa, the trek's official starting point. The final hour of driving took us deeper into the Andes, with increasingly spectacular mountain vistas. We arrived at Soraypampa at 8:30 AM, where we left the vehicles and began our hiking adventure.
The Humantay Lake Challenge (8:50 AM - 12:30 PM)
At 8:50 AM, we started the trail toward Humantay Lake, situated at 4,200 meters above sea level. We weren't alone; numerous groups were beginning the same hike, including full Salkantay Trek participants and day-trippers visiting only Humantay Lake. The trail felt quite busy, especially during morning hours.
Starting at 3,800 meters elevation, this was our first high-altitude hiking experience. Several group members experienced shortness of breath and mild headaches, common symptoms at this elevation. Local people with donkeys, mules, and horses offered rental services for struggling hikers, which some participants gratefully accepted.
The challenging ascent lasted approximately one hour and 30 minutes, with frequent stops for catching our breath and admiring the breathtaking landscape. The gradual altitude gain helped our bodies adjust while revealing increasingly spectacular Andean scenery.
We finally reached Humantay Lake at around 10:30 AM, and the sight was absolutely magical. This large, crystal-clear turquoise lake sits dramatically against impressive snow-capped mountain backgrounds. The location is undeniably Instagram-worthy, attracting many photographers capturing the perfect shot.
We spent about one hour at the lake, enjoying sunny weather with light clouds. The temperature felt fresh but comfortable, typical for high-altitude Andean locations. However, the crowds were significant, with hundreds of visitors admiring the landscape and taking photographs.
Pro Tip: If you can visit Humantay Lake in the afternoon, you'll likely encounter far fewer crowds. Most tour groups follow identical morning schedules, creating busy conditions between 10 AM and 12 PM. Afternoon visits after 2 PM offer more peaceful experiences, though the lake may fall into shadow around 3:30 PM.
Descent and Lunch (12:30 PM - 2:30 PM)
At 12:30 PM, we began our descent alongside every other group, creating another crowded situation. The synchronized scheduling meant everyone departed simultaneously, making the trails quite busy.
We walked down to Soraypampa town, located beneath Humantay Lake, where various hotels and restaurants serve trekkers. Our cooking team had prepared an incredible feast on a small field owned by local residents. The table featured numerous dishes including hearty soup, grilled meat, chicken, fresh vegetables, and traditional sides.
The generous portions proved difficult to finish, but maintaining energy levels was crucial for the afternoon's continued hiking. After lunch, we relaxed briefly on the grass field, enjoying the peaceful mountain atmosphere before continuing our journey.
Afternoon Ascent to Base Camp (2:30 PM - 4:30 PM)
At 2:30 PM, we resumed hiking toward our first base camp. While many groups sleep in Soraypampa town using hotels, domes, or basic tents, TreXperience's base camp was located much higher at Soirococha. Only three to four premium companies use this elevated location, providing more exclusive experiences.
The afternoon hike required climbing approximately 500 meters of elevation over several kilometers. We walked steadily up the valley, with the magnificent Salkantay Mountain dominating the landscape at the valley's end. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking, providing perfect photo opportunities throughout the ascent.
I deliberately took my time during this section, stopping frequently for photographs and landscape appreciation. This resulted in my being among the last to reach base camp at 4:30 PM, but the extra time allowed me to fully absorb the incredible surroundings.
First Night at High Altitude Base Camp (4:30 PM onwards)
Our base camp was simple yet functional, featuring spacious two-person dome tents with comfortable mattresses and warm blankets. The large dining tent provided communal space for meals and socializing, though the facilities remained quite basic with rudimentary toilets and no shower or electricity.
The air at this elevation felt extremely fresh and cold, creating challenging conditions for the evening. During dinner in the dining tent, we enjoyed good food but everyone felt the intense cold despite wearing multiple layers.
Sleeping at this altitude required significant preparation with warm clothing layers. The temperature dropped considerably after sunset, making quality sleeping gear essential for a comfortable night's rest. Despite the cold conditions, the crystal-clear mountain air and star-filled sky created an unforgettable first night experience on the Salkantay Trek.
Day 2: Conquering the Salkantay Pass - The Trek's Ultimate Challenge
Pre-Dawn Start in Freezing Conditions (4:30 AM - 6:30 AM)
We awakened at 4:30 AM to bitterly cold, freezing conditions outside our tents. Our thoughtful guides roused us gently with steaming coca leaf tea, a traditional remedy that we clutched desperately in our hands for warmth. The aromatic brew provided both physical comfort and cultural connection to the ancient Andean traditions.
The night had been challenging but manageable. Inside my sleeping bag with heavy blankets, my core body stayed warm throughout the evening. However, my shoulders, neck, and face felt the intense cold despite being inside the tent. At this extreme altitude, the tent's internal temperature gradually matches the outside conditions, creating a genuinely harsh environment.
The middle-of-the-night bathroom calls became serious challenges. Leaving the comfortable cocoon of warm blankets to brave the freezing outside air required genuine mental preparation and physical courage. Nevertheless, the night passed successfully, and sunrise brought renewed hope and energy.
During breakfast, we warmed up gradually while discussing our collective freezing night experience. I realized my rest had been relatively successful with a full night's sleep, though this wasn't the case for everyone. Some group members struggled significantly with the extreme cold and altitude combination.
Trek Preparation and Wildlife Encounters (6:30 AM - 7:30 AM)
After breakfast, we packed our personal bags and left them in the camp's center. Our dedicated porters and mules would transport this equipment to the next campsite, allowing us to hike with lighter daypacks. This logistical support proved invaluable for the day's challenging ascent.
The next three hours would involve steep uphill climbing at over 4,600 meters elevation. Several group members already felt tired and dizzy from yesterday's exertion and altitude effects. Three participants wisely decided to ride mules during this trek's most demanding section.
This ascent represents one of the Salkantay Trek's most challenging portions, taking hikers to their highest altitude point for spectacular Salkantay Mountain views. Every trekking company passes through this route before descending into the adjacent valley system.
The Grueling Ascent to Salkantay Pass (7:30 AM - 10:30 AM)
At approximately 7:30 AM, we began the arduous 230-meter uphill climb. This substantial elevation gain challenged our already tired legs from the previous day's hiking. We progressed slowly, allowing our bodies to warm up gradually in the thin mountain air.
The high-altitude environment supports limited wildlife species. Small birds watched our passage while singing occasionally, providing delightful natural soundtrack. More intriguingly, we spotted chinchillas, fascinating animals resembling rabbits with squirrel-like tails. These remarkable creatures leap gracefully from rock to rock, then disappear completely by camouflaging perfectly with their rock-colored fur. We also observed llamas, alpacas, and potentially mountain lions, though the latter remain extremely rare sightings.
The trail zigzagged strategically up the mountainside, leaving the valley floor for increasingly steep terrain. The switchback design made the incline manageable, though our breathing became progressively labored as altitude increased. However, the views were absolutely extraordinary, revealing landscapes I'd rarely experienced anywhere.
Behind us stretched the valley we'd traveled, flanked by massive mountains and dramatic rock formations. Ahead loomed the increasingly majestic Salkantay Mountain, creating an incredible natural spectacle that justified every difficult step.
Sharing the Trail with Local Carriers (8:30 AM - 10:30 AM)
During our slow progress, we frequently stopped to allow carriers with their mule trains to pass. One group belonged to our TreXperience team, but others worked for different companies or transported supplies to isolated families in remote valleys.
The carriers and their mules moved remarkably faster than our hiking group. Watching these experienced men, some carrying additional bags, directing mule groups while walking alongside them at superior speeds was genuinely incredible. This represented their natural environment, and they'd mastered efficient lung usage far better than visiting trekkers.
Reaching the Ultimate High Point (10:30 AM - 11:30 AM)
We finally arrived at our trek's highest point, the famous Salkantay Pass at 4,630 meters above sea level. This represented the highest elevation I'd ever reached in my life, creating a genuinely momentous personal achievement!
The view was absolutely incredible. Before us towered the imposing Salkantay Mountain alongside neighboring peaks, creating a massive wall that appeared impassable. We remained far from Salkantay's actual summit at 6,271 meters elevation. Some experienced mountaineers have successfully climbed Salkantay, but that requires completely different preparation and represents a serious challenge reserved for expert climbers.
We reached this spectacular viewpoint around 10:30 AM after walking more than five hours, representing a significant personal challenge. The location provided ample time for photography and landscape appreciation. Our knowledgeable guide Juan De Dios shared fascinating insights about Inca culture, explaining the profound relationship ancient peoples maintained with mountains, animals, and plants.
For example, Incas constructed storage shelters in these valleys to preserve and dehydrate potatoes, maintaining them in edible condition for 5, 10, or even 15 years! This incredible technique utilized natural environmental conditions to prevent famine during poor agricultural seasons.
Strategic Advantage of TreXperience's Base Camp Location
One significant advantage with TreXperience became apparent at this moment. Despite taking considerable time during the morning's ascent, stopping frequently for rest and photography, we remained among the first groups reaching the pass. This timing advantage resulted from our strategic campsite location.
Our base camp was positioned among the highest in the valley, occupied by only three or four premium companies. While this meant colder sleeping conditions, it provided superior stargazing opportunities and crucial trail advantages the following morning. Most groups stayed at lower Soraypampa, requiring them to complete the section we'd hiked the previous day during this morning's challenging ascent.
Descent into the New Valley System (11:30 AM - 1:30 PM)
At 11:30 AM, we began our descent into the adjacent valley system. The downhill walk felt pleasant and peaceful initially, though more groups passed us throughout the afternoon. Many groups arrived at the pass during midday, moving faster during their descent phase.
This trail section represents the classic Salkantay Trek route used by numerous trekking companies, creating moderate traffic throughout the day. After 1.5-2 hours of walking down rocky terrain, vegetation gradually reappeared with grass, camping fields, grazing cattle, basic houses, and rustic lunch locations.
The temperature transformation felt remarkable. The warm sun created pleasant conditions perfect for relaxing on grass fields. The rocky, snowy mountain landscape lay behind us after descending more than 800 meters in elevation. Ahead stretched impressive mountains at lower elevations, covered with green vegetation extending to their summits. Dense green vegetation and forest-like conditions began appearing, signaling our entry into different ecosystem zones.
Afternoon Valley Walk and Wildlife Observation (1:30 PM - 6:00 PM)
After our satisfying lunch, we continued through the valley, walking within small forest sections filled with delightful bird songs. We spotted numerous hummingbirds during this section, observing four different species: brown varieties, one with a beak exceeding 10 centimeters in length, and two green species. These fascinating creatures captured my complete attention throughout the afternoon.
I deliberately took extra time in this valley section, thoroughly enjoying the changing landscape and wildlife opportunities. Our guides established checkpoints every few kilometers for group reassembly, but since only one path led to our destination village, everyone could walk at individual paces.
Perhaps I took excessive time for photography and observation, plus the valley descent proved much longer than anticipated. I finally arrived at our campsite around 6:00 PM, among the last group members but thoroughly satisfied with the experience. This represented our trek's longest day with approximately 20 kilometers walked, creating another personal distance record!
Arrival at Colcapampa Village (6:00 PM onwards)
We stopped at Colcapampa, the valley's second village. Ten minutes earlier, we'd passed through Chalay Village, the first settlement encountered in this valley system. Both villages accommodate trekking groups, and independent trekkers easily find welcoming accommodation options.
What a pleasure to rediscover basic daily life elements like solid walls, electricity, and hot water! Our second campsite provided amenities missing from the previous night's high-altitude location. While the primitive first camp was part of the authentic experience, these improved facilities felt genuinely luxurious.
This accommodation allowed phone recharging for continued photography and video documentation. Hot showers were available for a small fee (10 soles, approximately 2 euros), and we slept on actual beds within small two-person rooms that retained warmth effectively, though we still used our sleeping bags for extra comfort.
Evening Reflection and Culinary Experiences
The evening dinner proved excellent and generous again! Most meals throughout our trek featured diverse dishes including fresh salads, various meat preparations, vegetables, and traditional sides. The only improvement would have been more consistent fruit offerings. As a fruit enthusiast, I craved fresh nutrients after demanding hiking days, though fruit availability varied between meals.
After the satisfying dinner, exhaustion overwhelmed everyone, and we retreated to our rooms for well-deserved rest. The combination of extreme altitude, challenging terrain, and dramatic ecosystem changes made this day the trek's most physically and mentally demanding experience. However, the spectacular landscapes, wildlife encounters, and cultural insights created memories that would last forever, justifying every difficult moment of this incredible Salkantay Pass conquest.
Day 3: Pleasant Descent, Killer Ascent, and Incredible Views of Machu Picchu
Another Early Start in Improved Conditions (5:00 AM - 7:00 AM)
We awakened at 5:00 AM, which felt like a luxury compared to yesterday's 4:30 AM start! Our guides brought steaming coca tea to help us slowly emerge from the night, demonstrating their consistent thoughtfulness throughout the trek. This night proved dramatically better, sleeping on a real bed in a warmer room, providing perfect conditions to tackle the challenging day ahead.
We enjoyed breakfast together as a group, packed our bags efficiently, and stood ready at 6:30 AM to begin the day's adventure. Since all trekking groups stayed in the same village overnight, the morning trail felt busier than usual, with various groups overtaking each other during the first few kilometers.
Our guide Juan De Dios took time to share fascinating knowledge about local plants and their traditional uses for medicinal purposes, fabric dyeing, and food cultivation. Every group stopped along the route for similar educational sessions with their guides, creating temporary traffic jams but valuable learning opportunities about indigenous plant wisdom.
Descent Through the Cloud Forest Ecosystem (7:00 AM - 10:20 AM)
We continued walking down the valley, crossing several suspension bridges and following the river's path through increasingly lush terrain. After 30 minutes of hiking, the sun rose significantly in the sky, creating warm conditions that allowed us to change into shorts and t-shirts. The heavy layering systems were no longer necessary at these lower elevations.
This valley section is particularly beautiful, representing the famous “cloud forest” ecosystem. The environment felt humid and fresh in shadowed areas, with moss covering surfaces everywhere, creating a genuine jungle atmosphere with dense, green vegetation. Bird songs filled the air constantly, complemented by the river's soothing sounds below, making this a genuinely pleasant walking experience.
The cloud forest represents a unique high-altitude ecosystem that literally lives within the clouds, forming between 1 500 and 3 000 meters elevation. These lush environments don't rely solely on rainfall; they actually extract water directly from the air through a process called horizontal precipitation. Every moss-covered branch, leafy plant, and orchid-laden tree captures moisture directly from the sky, creating a natural sponge system.
After 2-3 hours of walking, we arrived at Wiñaypoco, a large restaurant and campsite where all trekking groups rest for 15-30 minutes. The location even featured a football field with British tourists playing, providing entertaining cultural exchange opportunities.
Strategic Transportation Decision by TreXperience (10:20 AM - 1:00 PM)
From Wiñaypoco, our group utilized vehicle transportation to cover the next 5-10 kilometers, unlike most groups that continued walking down the same road. TreXperience made this strategic decision because the valley widens and becomes less charming compared to what awaited us afterward.
This proved to be an excellent strategy, as we separated from most other groups once again. For the remaining days, we encountered significantly fewer people ahead and behind us. I personally prefer walking on paths with minimal crowds to better enjoy the natural environment and wildlife observation opportunities.
Most groups continue walking 5-15 kilometers down the valley, depending on their campsite locations. Many stay at Lucmabamba village or surrounding areas. However, our van transported us directly to Lucmabamba at Ana Maria Coffee plantation for lunch and cultural experiences.
Coffee Farm Experience and Traditional Cooking (1:00 PM - 2:30 PM)
At Ana Maria Coffee, we enjoyed a traditional “pachamanca” cooking experience, where vegetables, meats, and potatoes are cooked using heated stones, then covered with banana leaves and earth. This ancient cooking method creates incredibly flavorful and tender dishes while providing authentic cultural immersion.
We also participated in a comprehensive coffee experience, learning about local families' coffee cultivation methods, processing techniques, and roasting procedures. The tasting session revealed excellent coffee quality with distinctive acidic notes, perfectly representing high-altitude Andean coffee characteristics.
This relaxing cultural moment provided perfect preparation for the afternoon's challenging ascent. The combination of delicious food, coffee education, and cultural exchange created memorable experiences beyond simple trekking activities.
Transition to Ancient Inca Roads (2:30 PM)
After this pleasant break, we packed our bags but needed to carry additional items. From this point, we would follow an authentic ancient Inca road, different from the famous Inca Trail but equally historical and significant. This centuries-old path was constructed by Inca engineers using sophisticated stone-laying techniques.
Due to the trail's historical significance and preservation requirements, mules cannot use this section. From this location, we no longer needed mule support, but for the mountaintop campsite, we required reduced baggage. We transferred items from large duffel bags to plastic bags that porters carried on their backs, while we took additional items in our daypacks.
The Grueling Ascent Challenge (2:30 PM - 7:00 PM)
Since morning, we'd descended more than 600 meters in elevation through the valley system. However, we now faced climbing upward more than 700 meters to reach our mountain destination. This represented the day's most significant physical challenge!
The mountain trail maintained constant upward incline with several particularly steep sections. The intense afternoon sun made conditions even more demanding, requiring rest stops every 30 minutes to catch our breath and prevent overheating. However, the landscapes became increasingly spectacular with each elevation gain, as changing perspectives revealed new panoramic views.
The most incredible landscapes actually existed on the mountain's opposite side, where Machu Picchu awaited our arrival. This knowledge provided motivation during the challenging climb, knowing extraordinary views justified every difficult step.
Reaching the Ultimate Viewpoint (7:00 PM)
After 4-5 hours of constant climbing, we finally reached the mountaintop, revealing landscapes I'd rarely experienced in my entire life. Upon arrival at the summit, we faced a literal wall of mountains with small pointed summits scattered throughout the vista. This created an absolutely incredible photographic opportunity and natural spectacle.
In the far background stretched this dramatic mountain wall, while closer foreground mountains appeared more gentle yet still impressive. Among these nearer mountains, we could perceive distinct lines and square formations. What we observed was actually Machu Picchu in the distance, incredibly far away but never feeling so close after days of challenging trekking.
Campsite Options and Llactapata Archaeological Site
I initially reached a viewpoint at the mountain's highest point near “Machu Picchu EcoLodge & Restaurant” (though Google Maps doesn't name this location specifically). This represents the highest elevation point for solo trekkers in this area. However, our designated campsite was “Llactapata Lodge,” which also provides tent space at slightly lower elevation but closer proximity to Machu Picchu.
Between these two locations, our group reunited at the Llactapata archaeological site. This small but fascinating site offers excellent photography opportunities and spectacular Machu Picchu viewing for sunset appreciation. The moment proved truly magical, watching golden hour light illuminate the distant ancient citadel.
Llactapata, meaning “high town” in Quechua, represents an important Inca administrative and ceremonial center. The site likely functioned as a rest stop and roadside shrine for journeys to Machu Picchu. Archaeological investigations revealed extensive structures connected to Machu Picchu through Inca Trail continuations leading into the Vilcabamba region. The location probably served important astronomical functions during solstices and equinoxes.
After this incredible archaeological and scenic experience, we descended 20 minutes to reach our designated campsite.
Final Campsite Amenities and Evening Reflection
Our final campsite provided electricity for phone and camera charging, though a small fee applied (5 soles). Shower facilities were available, but based on other trekkers' reactions, the water temperature was considerably colder than the previous location.
The evening meal maintained the expedition's high culinary standards with rich, delicious, and generous portions. For this night, we returned to tent accommodation, though comfortable conditions prevented excessive cold. The tent included a small mattress that I found adequate, though individual comfort preferences may vary. TreXperience offers inflatable mattress rentals, and this location represents the only place where additional padding truly benefits comfort levels.
Magical Evening Atmosphere
The campsite location provided incredibly bright star visibility due to minimal light pollution and high elevation. Horses grazed peacefully around our tents, creating amusing and charming nighttime encounters. The atmosphere remained relatively calm and peaceful despite the day's challenging exertion.
Everyone felt exhausted from this demanding day, not the trek's longest but certainly the most grueling due to the afternoon's steep ascent. Combined with the impressive landscape views we now faced, the experience left us feeling humble and small within this vast natural world. This created perfect conditions for meditation and mental preparation for reaching Aguas Calientes the following day, bringing us one step closer to our ultimate goal: visiting the legendary Machu Picchu.
The combination of challenging physical demands, cultural learning experiences, and spectacular natural beauty made Day 3 an unforgettable highlight of the entire Salkantay Trek adventure. The first glimpse of Machu Picchu from Llactapata provided emotional reward for all previous efforts, creating anticipation for the magical experience awaiting us at Peru's most famous archaeological wonder.
Day 4: Entering Machu Picchu National Park and the Railway Journey to Aguas Calientes
A Luxurious Late Start (6:00 AM - 7:00 AM)
This morning brought the incredible luxury of waking up at 6:15 AM! Despite today's long 17-kilometer journey to Aguas Calientes, we enjoyed a later start because our route consisted entirely of downhill walking from our mountain position, followed by steady flat terrain along the railway toward Aguas Calientes. While many groups either follow our exact path or pass through Santa Teresa, they face much longer walking distances and earlier wake-up calls.
We enjoyed breakfast at 6:30 AM, packed our bags efficiently, and savored the spectacular sunrise over our elevated position with Machu Picchu still visible in the distance. The golden morning light illuminating the distant ancient citadel created a simply magical moment. At 7:00 AM, we began our descent toward our ultimate goal of reaching Aguas Calientes, also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo.
Today's objective was reaching Hydroelectrica station for lunch, where train services, several stores, and restaurants provide trekker amenities. The afternoon would continue along the railway tracks directly to Aguas Calientes, completing our journey to Machu Picchu's base town.
Descent Through Protected Forest (7:00 AM - 8:00 AM)
The first hour involved steady descending along a path partially sheltered by tree canopy, limiting panoramic viewpoints but providing pleasant forest walking. We gradually descended deeper into the valley system, with nothing particularly remarkable about this trail section beyond the peaceful forest atmosphere.
Before entering Machu Picchu National Park, we stopped for an educational session with our guide Juan De Dios, who taught us extensively about the park's protected fauna and flora. For example, if we were fortunate, we might spot the magnificent “Cock-of-the-Rock,” Peru's national bird distinguished by its brilliant red/orange head plumage.
The Andean Cock-of-the-Rock (Rupicola peruviana) represents one of Peru's most spectacular bird species, featuring vibrant orange plumage and a distinctive fan-shaped crest. Males perform elaborate courtship displays called “leks,” where they compete for female attention through jumping, dancing, and vocalizations. This remarkable bird inhabits cloud forest environments throughout the Andes, including areas around Machu Picchu National Park.
Crossing into Machu Picchu National Park (8:00 AM - 9:00 AM)
To enter Machu Picchu National Park officially, we needed to cross to the valley's opposite side via a suspension bridge spanning the river. This long, exciting bridge moved considerably under foot traffic, though multiple steel cables ensured complete safety. Regulations allowed only three people crossing simultaneously to prevent excessive bridge movement.
We now officially entered the protected National Reserve of Machu Picchu, a strictly regulated park where camping and fires are completely prohibited. This protected status ensures preservation of the region's unique ecosystems and archaeological treasures.
Refreshing River Break (9:00 AM - 9:30 AM)
We decided to rest alongside the river, where some courageous group members attempted swimming in the glacial water. Juan De Dios jumped in enthusiastically as if the water were warm, though it definitely wasn't! The river flows directly from snow-capped mountains just kilometers away, creating genuinely glacial temperatures.
I attempted putting my feet in the water, but within seconds they became completely numb and lost all sensation. Some brave souls accepted the challenge and took quick full-body dips. Bravo to their courage and cold tolerance!
After this refreshing and invigorating moment, we continued walking less than one hour to reach Hydroelectrica station.
Arrival at Hydroelectrica Station (10:30 AM - 1:30 PM)
Hydroelectrica represents a small settlement centered around the railway station rather than a traditional town. The main indication of arriving at the correct location is a row of stalls selling drinks and snacks along the railway tracks. Two railway lines pass through this location, serving as a PeruRail station where many groups board trains to reach Aguas Calientes.
Not all trains stop at Hydroelectrica, but many trekking groups choose this convenient transportation option after completing long walking routes. Some groups have already walked extensive distances, either covering our yesterday afternoon and this morning's route, or alternative paths passing through Santa Teresa.
Here we enjoyed our final lunch prepared by our exceptional cooking team, featuring another fantastic meal with numerous delicious dishes. Our dedicated chef accompanied us from the trek's beginning until now, transporting cooking equipment including gas stoves, plates, and fresh food ingredients. Three amazing, strong team members supported our culinary needs throughout the journey. Thank you again! Tonight and tomorrow we'll dine at restaurants in Aguas Calientes.
The Challenging Railway Walk (1:30 PM - 5:00 PM)
We continued our journey on flat terrain following the railway tracks toward Aguas Calientes. This long section proved tiring and painful for feet despite the level grade. For four hours, we walked alongside the railway without clearly defined paths.
Most walking occurred on small rocks positioned under railway tracks for stabilization purposes. Consequently, my feet constantly stepped on one or two pointed rocks, causing significant discomfort. At this moment, I regretted not bringing better footwear. While my hiking shoes were good quality, the soles were too soft, allowing me to feel rocks excessively. By the walk's end, my feet literally burned and appeared red from constant pressure.
The railway walk from Hydroelectrica to Aguas Calientes covers approximately 10 kilometers following the train tracks and Urubamba River. As the crow flies, Aguas Calientes sits only 4.2 kilometers from Hydroelectrica, but the railway route extends the distance significantly by following the river's natural course. The trail remains virtually flat except for the final kilometer, which features a mild gradient leading into Aguas Calientes.
Scenic Railway Experience and Crowd Encounters
Nevertheless, the railway walk proved quite enjoyable for its scenic qualities. The path remained well-opened with beautiful forest views surrounding us constantly. Sometimes we spotted Machu Picchu mountain with ancient ruins beside it, confirming our proximity to the destination! Occasionally, we observed ruins at our current elevation, as Incas constructed agricultural terraces throughout this small valley system.
This represents a genuinely beautiful and charming walking experience despite the challenging surface conditions. To reach Aguas Calientes located in the valley, travelers have two access routes: from the east (Compuerta) or west (Hydroelectrica). All Salkantay Trek participants approach from the western Hydroelectrica route, creating significant traffic along this path.
We encountered numerous groups representing every possible demographic combination: young adventurers, older trekkers, couples, families, and groups ranging from 2-3 people to 15-20 participants. With more than 5,600 people visiting Machu Picchu daily, not everyone arrives by walking, but a substantial portion completes this railway trek.
Triumphant Arrival in Aguas Calientes (5:00 PM)
Around 5:00 PM, we finally arrived in Aguas Calientes at a comfortable hotel featuring proper rooms, comfortable beds, and private showers! Finally, we achieved this milestone! After four days of demanding daily hiking, steep climbs and descents, perspiration, breathlessness, incredible landscapes, and unforgettable memories, we reached the “Pueblo of Machu Picchu”.
All this trekking brought us here to prepare for one final intensive day tomorrow, visiting and absorbing everything possible with our eyes and cameras while exploring magnificent Machu Picchu.
Evening Celebration and Circuit Planning
This evening, we gathered at a local restaurant for well-deserved beer, pizza, and satisfying comfort food. Everyone celebrated and toasted this incredible adventure's successful completion! Unfortunately, tomorrow we wouldn't all follow identical circuits for visiting Machu Picchu, as TreXperience assigns different options based on availability and preferences.
With TreXperience, they typically assign Circuit #1 or #2 as the group's default option and depending on availability. I paid a supplement to access a second circuit, allowing me to visit Machu Picchu twice and climb Huayna Picchu mountain. Based on scheduling and ticket purchases, I arranged with three other group members to complete Circuit #2 at 6:00 AM, followed by Circuit #3 at 9:00 AM.
Circuit #2 provides amazing viewpoints and passage through the main ruins, while Circuit #3 enabled us to climb Huayna Picchu mountain. The circuit system offers multiple options: Circuit #2 includes two variations, and Circuit #3 features four different alternatives. Check detailed circuit information to understand all available options and plan your perfect Machu Picchu experience accordingly.Text full inline
This day represented our trek's final challenging physical component, transitioning from wilderness camping to comfortable town accommodations while building anticipation for tomorrow's ultimate reward: exploring one of the world's most spectacular archaeological sites in all its morning glory.
Day 5 – The Visit of the Notorious Machu Picchu, the City in the Clouds
Once more, our alarm sounded at 4:30 AM. We packed our bags, left our rooms, and met in the lobby at 5 AM for a quick breakfast. Despite a night of solid sleep, none of us felt fully rested. We all headed together to the bus station—even though our Machu Picchu circuits differed, we shared the same 6 AM entrance time. The line for buses snaked through Aguas Calientes, but dozens of vehicles shuttling visitors to the ruins kept it moving. In twenty minutes we reached the Park’s summit.
First and unforgettable visit of the Machu Picchu
At the entrance we split from our main group. I joined three fellow trekkers in a different TreXperience party returning from a two-day Sacred Valley itinerary. We climbed the wooden steps toward the first viewpoint while the sky still lay in predawn darkness. Other groups were already on the move, but compared to the crowds awaiting sunrise, these early risers felt few indeed.
Arriving at the classic overlook, I felt a surge of emotion. There lay the stone terraces and village ruins spread below us, with the two peaks—Huayna Picchu on the right and Huchuy Picchu Mountain on the left—rising behind. Seeing this postcard view in real life blended pride in our achievement with awe at the city in the clouds, a vestige of a vanished empire.
Circuit 2 then led us through this same viewpoint three more times, each offering a subtly different perspective. The final plateau provided the widest panorama, perfect for dawn and post-sunrise photography. Before the sun, the light lay evenly across every stone; after sunrise, dramatic shadows carved the ruins into sharp contrasts. Both moods were unforgettable.
Our guide filled each pause with rich Inca-empire insights—political strategy, spiritual symbolism, and cultural context. Then we descended into the main ruins, stopping often to learn how precisely cut doorways interlock, how walls flex during earthquakes, and whatchameleons of stone lay beneath our feet. The Incas’ engineering genius shone through intact terraces, towering stone walls, and their use of thatch roofing—now vanished but once sheltering these sacred rooms.
Somewhere amid these lessons and my own photography stops, I lost sight of my group. I wandered deep into the ruins before realizing I’d strayed. Though I missed out on some commentary, I still relished the freedom to explore the labeled circuit at my own pace.
After two and a half hours, I emerged for a snack and a quick restroom break—remember to carry two Soles cash for the facilities, as none exist inside the ruins.
Second visit with higher viewpoint
At 9 AM I joined the queue for Circuit 3 and the Huayna Picchu climb. After registering our entry time in a summit logbook, we had 1 hour 30 minutes to complete the round-trip on narrow, steep rock stairs sculpted directly into the mountain. A fixed rope cable offered handholds, but the uneven steps and sharp drops demanded focus. The best advice: ascend slowly, pausing to let fit hikers pass and to catch your breath.
Reaching the summit felt exhilarating. I stood atop Huayna Picchu with a full 360° panorama: green forested mountains, the Urubamba valley and railway path from yesterday, distant snowy peaks, and far below the famous Inca city with its intricate terraces. On a good day you can even spot the Llactapata campsite from Day 3, tiny amid the vast valley walls. From this perch you feel a powerful connection to the ancient world and the sweeping Andean landscape.
At 1 PM our guides led us back to Aguas Calientes for a final celebratory lunch. With laughter and clinking glasses, we toasted completing five days of intense trekking, steep ascents, and breathtaking views—yet the journey was not over. We boarded the panoramic PeruRail train to Ollantaytambo, riding beneath oversized windows and glass ceilings that framed one last Andean spectacle. A live traditional music performance in one carriage added festive flair to the ride.
In Ollantaytambo we transferred to a van bound for Cusco. While the train continues onward, most groups prefer the shorter, more scenic van route. As Andean peaks receded behind us, we reflected on the remarkable adventure that had led us to Machu Picchu’s legendary City in the Clouds.
A Finale Above the Clouds
The Salkantay Trek delivers a profound blend of challenge, culture, and breathtaking scenery that truly earns every step. From the glacial waters of Humantay Lake to the soaring heights of Salkantay Pass, each day brings new landscapes and wildlife encounters—from camouflaged chinchillas to vibrant cloud-forest birds. Trekking with TreXperience ensures seamless logistics, knowledgeable guides, and hearty meals that fuel your adventure while leaving you free to immerse yourself in Peru’s Andean grandeur.
Moreover, the diverse ecosystems—from high-altitude plains to lush cloud forests—culminate in the ultimate reward: Machu Picchu’s ancient citadel rising from mist and mountain. Climbing Huayna Picchu adds an unforgettable 360° perspective, reinforcing the sense of journey and discovery. Whether you choose the full five-day route or a condensed four-day option, the trek’s pacing and support allow both seasoned hikers and first-time adventurers to succeed.
In addition, traveling with porters and mule support transforms what could be an exhausting expedition into a comfortable exploration, letting you focus on stunning vistas and cultural insights. For those seeking a less crowded alternative to the Inca Trail, the Salkantay Trek offers solitude without sacrificing epic views or historical significance.
Ultimately, this trek is more than just a path to an archaeological wonder—it’s a life-changing passage through Peru’s natural and cultural heritage. Prepare thoroughly, respect the high-altitude environment, and carry an open heart for unexpected discoveries. Embark on the Salkantay Trek, and you’ll not only reach Machu Picchu—you’ll transform ordinary travel into an extraordinary adventure in the clouds.
FAQ
How difficult is the Salkantay Trek?
The Salkantay Trek is rated moderate to challenging due to high altitudes and long daily distances. The steep ascent to Salkantay Pass at 4 630 m requires good cardiovascular fitness and gradual pacing.
How many days does the trek take?
Most itineraries span four to five days, with the final day dedicated to visiting Machu Picchu. Daily hiking averages 15 km, though distances vary by itinerary.
Do I need a permit for the Salkantay Trek?
No permits are required for the Salkantay route itself, unlike the Inca Trail. You only need entrance tickets for Machu Picchu, which should be booked in advance.
When is the best time to trek Salkantay?
The dry season from May through October offers the most reliable weather and clear mountain views. June to August are peak months, so expect more crowds and higher prices.
Can beginners do the Salkantay Trek?
Yes. No technical climbing skills are needed, and porter support is available to carry heavy gear. A basic level of fitness and prior hiking experience improve comfort significantly.
How should I prepare physically for the trek?
Cardiovascular training (running, cycling) and leg-strengthening exercises for at least two months prior are recommended. Arrive in Cusco 2–3 days early to acclimatize to high altitude.
What gear is essential on the trek?
Pack layered clothing, a warm sleeping bag, sturdy hiking boots, sunscreen, and a headlamp. Mules carry 5–10 kg of personal items when booked with an agency, letting you hike with a light daypack.
What about altitude sickness?
Altitude sickness can occur above 3 000 m. Drink plenty of water, ascend slowly, and consider coca leaf tea or prescribed medication. Most symptoms subside upon descent.
Can I do the trek independently?
Yes, independent trekking is possible. However, guided tours include logistics, porters, and cooking services that enhance safety and comfort, especially at high altitude.
How far in advance should I book?
Book at least two to three months ahead to secure Machu Picchu tickets and preferred tour dates. Peak season bookings may require even earlier reservations.
Are meals provided?
Guided tours include breakfast, lunch, and dinner prepared by cooking teams. Special dietary needs (vegetarian, gluten-free) can usually be accommodated with prior notice.
Is water included on the trek?
Most agencies supply purified water refills at campsites. Carry a reusable bottle and water purification tablets as a backup, especially on independent hikes.
What is the minimum age for the trek?
While no official minimum age exists, participants should be at least 12 years old and capable of hiking several hours daily at altitude. Family-friendly groups often welcome teenagers in good physical condition.
How do I get from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu?
A short bus ride (20 minutes) runs from Aguas Calientes to the Machu Picchu entrance. Tickets are included in most tour packages and can also be purchased on-site.
Can I climb Huayna Picchu after the trek?
Yes, but Huayna Picchu requires a separate ticket limited to 400 entries per day. Book this add-on 3–6 months in advance to guarantee availability.
More Photos of Salkantay Trek
If you're interested in owning one of the photos (printing them, setting them as your phone wallpaper, or using them for commercial purposes), you can easily get them on Pixieset. If you don't find the photo you like, send me a quick message on Instagram (@HorizonHugo), and I’ll add it!
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